I have a question on the use of DIN fittings. It is my understanding that 200 bar DIN are the most universal. They are easy to adapt to yoke, and a 200 or 300 bar regulator can be used. My question is, would I be better to get 200 bar valves, or just bite the bullet and go 300 bar?
Depends on what you're trying to accomplish. All my tanks and regs are 300BAR, because I always use my won tanks and I only lend 'em to people I know and trust as divers (who also happen to be diving 300BAR. If you haven't swapped all your regs to DIN yet, or plan on mixing tanks with people who keep diving yoke, then I'd say 200BAR might work better for you.
However, 300BAR gives you a better connection, there are no exposed threads from the reg (compared to when using a 300BAR reg with a 200BAR valve) so the chances of your reg breaking at the threads are minimalized. I firmly believe in having your gear totally squared away, and using 200BAR for the kind of diving I do I find a sloppy mindset.
One more thing, if you use all the same regs and valves, that means you can greatly reduce your spare parts kit as well. Example, I use all Zeagle regs, and have Diverite manifolds and Thermo valves on my stages and single tanks. Valve parts are interchangeable so less worries there, but I always bring one spare first and second with me when I go diving, plus a complete rebuild kit for first and second as well. That way I know I never have to call a dive because of equipment malfunction before the dive starts.
Hadn't thought about the smaller repair kit, good point. I had thought about keeping my existing TX-100's yoke, buying new DS4's 300 DIN, and then 200 Bar tanks to share. I thought keeping my regs yoke would help when we travel, and can't find Bar valves. How hard is it (and more important how funtional) to use a yoke adaptor with a DIN reg. Maybe that's a better solution. I just don't want to carry my own tanks to distant locations, and some operators don't have DIN valves.
It is not hard to use a yoke adapter with a din reg and some people do it that way. I personally don't like it just because the reg sticks out an extra inch or so - this doesn't bother some people. It is still quite functional that way. If you are competent (and confident) you can just have the yoke part and the din part for the reg and switch back and forth as necessary which is what I do - yoke for travel and din for home with my tanks.
T
Swapping the DIN fitting out for the yoke fitting is children's play. It usually means unscrewing one screw with an allen key, sliding out the DIN connector and putting in the yoke.
It's amazing how many people are afraid to touch anything on their own gear, but are totally confident changing a flat on their car or changing the oil, etc.
I know *YOU* can change it, but there are those who are
AAA members and also frequent their local JiffyLube. 8)
This is where a good working relationship with your LDS and the technician(s) there is important. Well I think its important anyway but even more so in this case.
T
Forget the 200 BAR and go to 300 BAR. DIN makes for a much more secure fitting. 200 BAR DIN just confuses the issue and doesn't really get you where you want to be. I agree with all of FMT's and DRE's comments on this. Generic DIN-to-Yoke adaptors are simple to use: these simply screw on over the DIN "male" fitting on the regulator in about 5 seconds (cost is around $40-$60). You can then use the reg on any tank with a yoke valve. If you take about 2 extra minutes you can swap out the DIN fitting on your reg for the yoke fitting (keep it in your spare parts kit). The only tools required for this will usually be a wrench to loosen/tighten the yoke fitting and an "allen" key to loosen/tighten the DIN fitting (again, simple tools that should be in a spare parts kit). This is what I do when I dive a tank with a yoke valve. Even though I always have my yoke fittings with me I do also carry one of the DIN-to-Yoke adaptors just in case. I like to "cover all the bases" so to speak.
Thanks guys! I think I'll convert my existing to DIN, and keep the yoke adaptor. Heck, going that route will also save me 2 DS4's.
One thing to check is whether the reg is a 300 bar. I say this because I have one reg (for argon) that is 200 bar and the rest (Apeks) are 300 bar. I get a bit of shock when I went to put the 200 into the 300 and heard hissing.
JoelW
For those of you switching your regs from DIN to Yoke and back again without utilizing the Yoke adaptor, what is the torque setting of your yoke nut and DIN screws? Are you using torque wrenches (it sounded like some may not)?
Is your torque setting when the two veins appear in your forehead, then you stop?
(Even working on a car, if you are going to do it properly, nuts and bolts have torques limits and guidelines to follow)
What keeps those who don't use a torque wrench, the proper orings, lubricants, and torques settings from either seizing materials together, or from losing their connection when diving? (If a yoke, or DIN first stage is under pressure from the supply air, and then you turn the first stage to align it (because the hoses aren't the way you want - and you didn't hold it when opening the supply air) as many people do, the screw may stay fixed in position, but the rest of the first stage turns. That's because it's become too lose and the threads are what's turning.)
(The torque issue doesn't apply to a Yoke adaptor, which is a hand-tighten fitting.)
Competent and confident is not for everyone, that's why regs have torque settings for the technicians who are trained.
My 2 cents ;D